KISS IV Count

The KISS IV count is in no way affiliated with Fred Renzey. The inspiration does certainly come from his work which can be found in Blackjack Bluebook II, which is recommend for any aspiring blackjack player. With that said, here is the KISS IV count.

KISS IV Stats

Betting Correlation: .98 Playing Efficiency: .62 Insurance Correlation: .87

Level 1, unbalanced

As can be seen above, the KISS IV count has stats that rival a level two balanced count, yet remains a level 1 unbalanced. This is made possible by taking the strengths of the KISS II and KISS III counts and combining them into one count.

KISS IV Initial Running Count By Number Of Decks

1 Deck - 18

2 Deck - 17

4 Deck - 13

6 Deck - 9

8 Deck – 5

KISS IV Betting Ramp (in units)

Running Count	1 Deck	2 Deck	4 Deck	6 Deck	8 Deck
19 and Below	1	1	1	1	1
20	2 to 3	2 to 3	2 to 5	2 to 4	2 to 5
21	4	4 to 5	6 to 7	5 to 8	6 to 9
22	4	6	8 to 9	9 to 11	10 to 11
23	4	6	10	12	12

The Side Count

The only difference between II and III is that III counts the Aces and 7's, where as II does not. So if a side count of Aces vs 7's is kept, that can be added that to the running count for betting purposes and only use the black 2's, 3's, 4', 5's, 6's, and 10's for the main count.

KISS IV Card Ranks

Black 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 = +1

10 = -1

7 = A, B, C, D . . . (or fingers and toes if you prefer)

A = Z, Y, X, W . . .

The side count is used as follows:

. . . Y=-2, Z=-1, 0, A=1, B=2 . . .

Remember the side count is a ratio, not two separate side counts.

As an example; off the top of a six deck shoe the cards come out 3, 7, 5, 9, 10, 7, Ace. The count would start at 9, the initial running count for a six deck game. The count would then go 10, 10A, 11A, 11A, 10A, 10B, 10A.

For betting purposes the running count would be 11. 10 + A = 11.

For playing and insurance decisions the count is still 10.

Since KISS users don't have to convert it's essentially just keeping two running counts and doing simple addition or subtraction before making the bet.

Estimating The Advantage

In the charts below KISS III and KISS IV are interchangeable.

Another issue is KISS III a lot of times will overestimate the advantage early in the shoe and underestimate it towards the end of a shoe. Luckily Daniel Dravot in The Color of Blackjack has shown an easy way to solve that problem using a warm and cold line ramp.

Early in the shoe the max bet is being played before it should be (assuming a max bet at a +3 true count). This can easily be solved by memorizing a couple numbers.

At the beginning of a 6 deck shoe max bet should be placed at RC 27 or higher and lowered by 1 with each deck remaining.

Conversely there is a slight advantage off the top of a shoe at RC 15 and this number will rise by 1 for every deck played. This will help notice advantages much sooner.

In the chart above, it is shown that the KISS III normally wants to raise bets at a running count of 20. Unfortunately that misses a lot of opportunities early on in the shoe (keep in mind "warm line" is a +1 True Count, a very slight advantage in most games.)

If the game conditions are sub par it is recommended to wait for a +1.5 true count before raising bets. These numbers rise by half running counts so this works better if all 2's are counted as .5. They start at 18, 18.5, 19, 19.5, 20, 20.5. (Round the numbers up if only counting black 2's.) - NOTE: This group should be used if only playing H17 games.

The Insurance Decision

Insurance is normally taken at the running of 25 when using KISS III. However, that's just an all around compromise. Normally, insurance would be taken at a +3 true count which varies as decks are played.

From the chart above, it is seen that, other than two decks in, a running count of 25 will be slightly off from making the correct insurance call. The solution to this is very simple. Off the top of a 6 deck shoe insurance should be taken at 27 or above, and then reduced by 1 for every deck played. This is identical to the max bet ramp.

Index Ramps

This is the least important section for this count, and in all honesty, a player would be just fine memorizing the index plays. If one wants to squeeze every last bit of power out of the .62 playing efficiency, then this is how it's done. This is touched on in Fred Renzey's book Blackjack Bluebook II, but gets overlooked more than it should.

As can be seen here it's exactly the same as the betting and insurance ramp. The running count moves with the number of decks. But the great thing is that it's always moving in the same direction by the same amount in proportion to number of remaining decks.

Here is a few of the one's that are listed in Fred's book (don't worry, I asked permission) and as can be seen, they group together to make it easier.

16 V 10 and 12 V 4 - 10,12,14,16,18,19

12 V 6, 13 V 2, and 9 V 3 - 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18

12 V 5, 13 V 3, 10 V 9 - -3, 1, 5, 9, 13, 17

Also a lot of this is similar to the True Fudging method also described in Blackjack Bluebook II, but it has never been just laid out for others to use.

Afterword

Some may find the challenge of using a side count to be too daunting of a task. If that's the case, then using a level 2 balanced count is a great method. For those that do not enjoy true counting, but have the ability to keep two running counts this method will give the power needed to compete with the best counts out there. It all comes down to personal preference, and there is no wrong way to go.

Basics of KISS III

Before I can introduce you to what I call KISS IV you'll need a basic understanding of the KISS III system. If you want to know the index plays and get the inside tips from the creator himself you're going to have to check out Blackjack Bluebook II. With that disclaimer, here we go!

KISS III Stats: Betting Correlation: .98 Playing Efficiency: .56 Insurance Correlation: .78

KISS III is an unbalanced count. What this means for you is that it will be a bit simpler to use compared to a balanced count, but will lose some accuracy when because of the fact that there is no true count conversion. We'll take care of that loss of accuracy with KISS IV.

With KISS III your initial running count (IRC) will vary depending on the number of decks you are playing. For the purpose of this discussion we are going to assume you are playing a six deck shoe. In this case your initial running count will be set to 9. The card ranks are as follows:

KISS III Card Ranks

Essentially how this works is you sit down at a 6 deck game (or back count) with your initial running count, which is 9, in your head. For every card that comes out you either add or subtract the values above to your running count. Don't worry about missing out on small things, such as the burn card, as the effect of missing one card will be miniscule. As an example, let's assume the following scenario:

You have went to your local casino and sat down at a 6 deck blackjack game. We're also going to assume you've done your homework and the rules and penetration of this game are also beatable. It's just you and the dealer heads up. The dealer deals you a 9 of clubs and a 2 of clubs. The dealer's upcard is jack of hearts. What is your running count now?

Well let's see, the 9 of clubs has a value of 0. Your running count will stay at 9. Your 2 of clubs is a black 2 and has a value of +1. Your running count has changed to 10 (9+1=10.) We need to count the dealer's card and he has a jack of hearts. His card has a value of -1 so our running count returns to 9 (10-1=9.)

We decide to double down and receive a 10 of hearts. We have 21, nice! Let's not forget to count this card though. A 10 has a value of -1 so our running count has been reduced to 8 (9-1=8.)

The dealer flips up their card and they were holding the king of clubs which has a value of -1. Our running count is reduced to 7 and the dealer scoops up the cards and places them in the discard tray. Our running count stays at 7 for the next hand where we repeat this process until the shoe is reshuffled.

Well great, we have all this information about the cards being played, but the trick is using it effectively to make smart, profitable decisions. With the KISS III count you know you have an advantage anytime your running count hits 20 or above. Likewise, it's probably time to walk away anytime your running count hits 4 or lower. You should only take insurance only at a count of 25 or above. Your decision to hit, stand, double down, or split will also be affected by your running count.

Now that you have an understanding of the KISS II and KISS III counts let's take it another step and I'll show you some tricks I've come up with to squeeze every last drop of power out of these counts.

NOTE: This is only basic information; this is not enough to make you a profitable player. You are still going to need to know how to increase your bets, bankroll guidelines, index plays, etc. Once again I recommend Mr. Renzey's book Blackjack Bluebook II or you can use my version of the count which will be detailed in an upcoming article.

If you haven't purchased Blackjack Bluebook II yet, I highly recommend it!  Click the picture below!
 

Basics of KISS II

This article will be very similar to the KISS III article, but will outline the differences between the two. If you have already read over KISS III this may be familiar to you.

Before I can introduce you to what I call KISS IV you'll need a basic understanding of the KISS II and KISS III system. If you want to know the index plays and get the inside tips from the creator himself you're going to have to check out Blackjack Bluebook II. With that disclaimer, here we go!

KISS II Stats: Betting Correlation: .90 Playing Efficiency: .62 Insurance Correlation: .87

KISS II is an unbalanced count. What this means for you is that it will be a bit simpler to use compared to a balanced count, but will lose some accuracy when because of the fact that there is no true count conversion. We'll take care of that loss of accuracy with KISS IV.

With KISS II your initial running count (IRC) will vary depending on the number of decks you are playing. For the purpose of this discussion we are going to assume you are playing a six deck shoe. In this case your initial running count will be set to 9, exactly the same as KISS III. The card ranks are as follows:

KISS II Card Ranks

For basic information on how to use these tags to your advantage please read the Kiss III article or for a more in depth discussion please read the Basics of Card Counting article or the KISS IV article.

You can use the exact same initial running counts, betting ramps, insurance, and index plays as KISS III.

If you haven't purchased Blackjack Bluebook II yet, I highly recommend it!  Click the picture below!
 

Card Counting Basics Part 4

Previous Page

Levels of Counts

A card counting strategy is not only labeled balanced or unbalanced, but also by what level it is.  The level is determined by the tags given to the ranks in the system.  For example, the KISS III count has tags of -1, 0, and +1.  So KISS III is a level 1 count.  A count such as Hi Opt II, which is actually the count featured in the movie The Hangover, has tags of -2, -1, 0, +1, and +2, therefore, is described as a level 2 count.  There is no limit to the number of levels a count can have, but once you cross the threshold of a level 3, or even a level 2, there are very diminishing returns involved.  I personally would recommend sticking with a level 2 or below.

Count To Choose From

There are many counts out there to choose from, and for a beginner, navigating all the information can be very hard.  One thing to remember is that for a casual player the difference between the counts will be very minimal.  Choose what you're comfortable with, not which is the most powerful.  For someone who plans on putting in many hours then they should probably go with a slightly stronger count.  The counts I'm about to list aren't the only ones out there, but they are some of the best ones, but you should always research yourself to see what truly fits you.

Beginner's Counts

KISS III - Stands for Keep It Simple, Stupid and is the third variation of the count.  There are four other counts in the book (including the ace ten front count), but there really shouldn't be any need to use KISS I and II.  KISS III is an unbalanced level 1 count which focuses primarily on betting.  This count is great for shoe games.
Stats:  Betting Correlation: .98  Playing Efficiency: .56  Insurance Correlation: .78

KO - Stands for Knock Out Blackjack and is an unbalanced, level 1 count.  This count focuses on betting and is best suited to shoe games.
Stats: Betting Correlation: .98 Playing Efficiency: .55  Insurance Correlation: .78

Hi Lo - This count, which is the most common of all counts, and has been featured in movies such as 21, is a level 1 balanced count.  Since it is balanced it can be effective for both shoe and pitch games, and is is the count used by many teams.
Stats: Betting Correlation: .97  Playing Efficiency: .51  Insurance Correlation: .76

Red Seven - This count is an unbalanced, level 1 count very similar to the KISS III count.  This count is great for shoe games.
Stats: Betting Correlation: .98  Playing Efficiency: .54  Insurance Correlation: .78

REKO - Stands for "Really Easy K.O."  This count is great for beginners, and it is in a free ebook.  The creator is also responsible for some really great card counting software, and is very open to answering questions personally.  This is a level 1, unbalanced count.
Stats: Betting Correlation: .98 Playing Efficiency: .55  Insurance Correlation: .78

Advanced Counts

Hi Opt II - This is an advanced, balanced, level 2 count designed primarily for pitch games, although it can be used in shoe games.  This count has been found to outperform many level 3 counts.  I personally use this count when playing double deck games and I find it to be great.  The count can be made even stronger by adding an Ace Side count.  Don't let the betting correlation stat below fool you, that is figured without the ace side count.
Stats: Betting Correlation: .91  Playing Efficiency: .67  Insurance Correlation: .91

Mentor Count - A balanced, level 2 count that is featured in the same book as the KISS III count.  This is a very good count that can be used in both shoe and pitch games.  True counting with this count is made slightly easier by the fact that you divide by the number of double decks remaining.
Stats: Betting Correlation: .97 Playing Efficiency: .62  Insurance Correlation: .80

Zen Count - A balanced, level 2 count that is featured in the same book as the Red Seven count.  This is a very popular count, and can be used for both shoe games and pitch games.
Stats: Betting Correlation: .96  Playing Efficiency: .63  Insurance Correlation: .85

KISS IV - An unbalanced, level 1 count that I came up with that mixes the best part of KISS II and III into a count that can rival level 2, balanced counts.  While this count does not require true counting, it may be harder for some individuals as it does involve a side count.  I will break this count down in a future article.
Stats: Betting Correlation: .98  Playing Efficiency: .62  Insurance Correlation: .87

As I said before, there are many other great counts out there, but these are the ones that I personally recommend for people to learn. 

Bankroll Management

Since bankroll management is covered by so many other sources I'm just going to give a brief guideline to follow.  Have 1000 units of whatever minimum bet you are planning in your bankroll at all times.  That means that if you want to play a $10 minimum bet, then you need to have a $10,000 bankroll.  There are ways to mitigate this, however, such as playing on a replenishable bankroll, lowering minimum bet size, gaining a larger edge in your game, or wonging out. 

That will be the end of the Basics of Card Counting series.  If you have any questions do not hesitate to comment or go to my forum and ask there!

Card Counting Basics - Part 3

If you haven't already checked them out, here is both Part 1 and Part 2 of this series.

Finally, How to Count Cards!

Now that we have the background information out of the way, it's time to actually break down how to count cards.  I'm going to start this off by explaining a bit about what components a count has, and how you can use those to decide what is best for you.

To begin, there are two different types of counts.  There are balanced counts, and unbalanced counts.

Balanced:  A balanced count usually starts with an initial running count of 0.  In a balanced count there are an even number of cards that are given a positive numerical value and cards that are given a negative numerical value.  Since there is an even amount of both, a completely brand new deck would have a neutral, or 0, count.

For example, the most common card counting system, assigns all cards 2 through 6 with a value of +1.  This comes out to having 5 ranks of cards with a +1 value.  10's and Aces have a value of -1.  This, once again, comes out to having 5 ranks of cards with a -1 value (10, Jack, Queen, King, Ace.) 

Balanced counts also require you to convert your running count into what is called a true count.  This is acheived by taking your running count and dividing that number by the number of decks remaining.  The true count is an accurate representation of the player's advantage at any given moment.  Balanced counts are generally considered more difficult than unbalanced, but also more powerful.

Unbalanced:  An unbalanced count is generally considered to be easier to learn than a balanced count, but they are usually less powerful (this is not always true).  Unbalanced counts are great for beginner's as they do not require you to convert your running count into a true count.  Do not let the alpha male inside you decide you won't waste your time with unbalanced counts because of a tiny loss of power.  I still use, depending on the game, an unbalanced count.

An unbalanced count has more ranks given a positive numerical value than they do ranks with a negative numerical value.  For example, take a look at the KISS III count.  You will see that there are two more positive cards per deck (since only black 2's are counted as +1) than negative.

This is actually a very cool feature as it works as a sort of "auto correct," where it automatically will adjust your inital running count as you play.  Let me give you an example of this.

Using the KISS III system, your initial running count for a 6 deck game is 9.  You gain an advantage whenever your running count reaches 20 or above.  So how many more positive cards would it take to get an advantage?  11 obviously as 9+11=20.  If you take that 11 and divide it by 5.75 (remember you've taken 11 cards out of the 6 decks and you get 1.9.  A true count of 2.0 is usually where a balanced count begins raising its bets, assuming it's a level 1 count.

Now let's fast forward through a few decks.  We're down to 4 decks remaining.  Our initial running count with 6 decks left was 9, but since then we've been counting 2 extra positive cards per deck.  That means a neutral count would rise by 2 for every deck played.  So at 5 decks it becomes 11.  At 4 decks it becomes 13.  Now how many cards does it take to get an advantage?  7 more positive cards.  Let's take that 7 and divide it by the number of decks remaining and we get 1.8 again. 

So we had a running count of 20 both times, and the unbalanced count was able to pinpoint our advantage both times, and we didn't even have to true count!!  (Although we did).

Confused Yet?  Don't Give up!

The stuff above is really only for informational purposes.  You won't be expected to understand that to count cards.  It's something that will come with time as you get more experienced.  If you can add and subtract by 1, and are able to divide by the numbers 1 through 8, then you can count cards.  If you take anything at all from the above section it's that both balanced and unbalanced counts are viable options to learn, but I recommend an unbalanced count for beginners. 

I really didn't want to break this down into so many parts, but there is much to explain when it comes to blackjack, so keep make sure to read Part 4!  (coming soon!)

Card Counting Basics - Part 2

If you haven't already read it, Part 1 can be found here.

What Does Card Counting Do?

Counting cards allows you to keep track of the ratio of the number of cards left that are good for the player against the number of cards left that are bad for the player.

Cards That Are Good For The Player

The cards that are best for the player are the tens and aces. Some of the reasons for this are obvious.

1. Increases the frequency of blackjacks (it's the name of the game!)
1. But doesn't this increase the frequency of blackjacks for the dealer too? Yes, it does, but while you only lose your original bet when the dealer gets a blackjack, you get paid 3 to 2 when you get one against the dealer.
2. The blackjack is the most profitable part of the game for the player.
2. Tens and aces tend to give you better starting hands, and make your decisions easier.
1. An example would be playing a card total of 20 is much easier on the player than playing a card total of 14.
3. Increases the chance of the dealer busting.
1. While the player has the option to hit, stand, double, or split to their heart's content, the dealer is restricted to playing by a certain set of rules. One of those rules is that they must always hit with less than 17 no matter what the player holds. Having more tens in the deck increases the chance that they go over 21.
4. Double downs tend to be more profitable.
1. Think about what hands you usually double down on. 9, 10, or 11. Getting a 10 or ace (except on 11) will greatly increase your chance of winning the hand.

Cards That Are Bad For The Player

The worst cards for the player are the 5's and the 6's. Slightly less bad for the player are the 2's, 3's, 4's, and 7's. Some counts differentiate between the two tiers, but for most counters this really isn't necessary. Some of the reasons these are bad are the exact opposite of the reasons above.

1. Less chances of the dealer busting.
1. Low cards really help the dealer when they are forced to hit as it's easier to stay under 21.
2. Double downs become less profitable.
1. Once again, the hands you double on are 9, 10, and 11. Low cards are terrible for these situations since you only receive one card.
3. Starting hands tend to be of a lower quality.
1. Any hand that involves low cards will usually be inferior to hands that involve big cards.

So Now What?

Since it is known what cards are good for the player, and which cards are bad, all that needed to be done was to come up with a simple way to keep track of these cards. The Thorp Count, detailed in the original book on card counting, Beat the Dealer, was the first method used to count, but it was really only a viable option against single and double deck games. The casinos became wise to this and began adding more decks for the player to face off against. The methods were then refined and we have the newer strategies of today. There are now many counts to choose from such as hi-lo, ko, KISS III, and the Zen Count, among many others.


All of these counts use a similar method of assigning a numerical value to each card in the deck, and then keeping a running tally, or a running count, to track the overall value of the unplayed cards. While they all have the same goal, they don't all accomplish it in the same way. Next we will go over how different card counting systems work.

Continue on to Part 3

Card Counting Basics

Card Counting has achieved an almost myth like status among the mainstream.  A lot of this has to do with movies such as The Hangover, 21, and Rain Man. Many seem to think that card counting is illegal (it is not.)  Others believe you must have savant like abilities (you certainly do not, although they wouldn't hurt).  It is also believed that we must memorize every single card that is played in the deck (you guessed it, not true).  Generally speaking, the ability to count cards is probably easier than you ever imagined, while the ability to make significant money while card counting is much harder than you have ever imagined. So if one doesn't have to be super intelligent with a photographic memory all the while dodging the law to count cards, then how does one gain an advantage in a blackjack game? 

One of the first things that must be done is your research on the game that you will be playing.  Not all blackjack is created equal, and you must make sure you have a beatable game.  Different rule sets will change the house edge, and while they may not sound like much, every little bit counts.  Your long term advantage if you are solely counting cards is only 1%-2%.  So that 6 to 5 payout on the blackjack game you're playing reduced your edge 1.71% and effectively killed all profits.  In other words AVOID 6 to 5 blackjack, it might as well be a scam.

Rule Set Effects

If there are any terms that you do not understand please check out my Blackjack Definitions (Migrating Soon) page.
Here are some of the bigger rules you'll see, and their effect on your advantage.

Number of Decks:

• 1 Deck  - (+0.02%)
• 2 Decks - (-0.31%)
• 4 Decks - (-0.48%)
• 6 Decks - (-0.54%)
• 8 Decks - (-0.57%)

As you can see, the fewer the decks you are facing, the better it is for the player.  Generally speaking, you'll find more of the 1 and 2 deck games in the higher limit rooms, and the multiple decks games on the regular floor.  Don't give up on the multiple deck games though, there are plenty of rules that will still let them be profitable games to play, and are actually where I spend the majority of my time counting.



Before we can go into how much each rule effects our advantage we need to come up with a standard game with which to base the rule changes off of.  We'll use what's considered the standard in Vegas.

1. Dealer stands on soft 17.
2. You are allowed to double down on any two cards.
3. You are not allowed to double after split.
4. You are allowed to split any pair.
5. You are allowed to re-split any pair with the exception of aces.
6. You only receive one card on each split ace.
7. No surrender.
8. Blackjack is paid 3 to 2 (very important.)
9. Dealer peeks for blackjack, or player only loses original bet placed on dealer blackjack or OBO.  If you are playing in America you will hardly ever see anything else, but you must be aware.

Now for the rule changes and their effects (we are going to assume a 6 or 8 deck game):

• Late Surrender S17        - (+0.08%)
• Late Surrender H17        - (+0.09%)
• Hits Soft 17                    - (-0.21%)
• Re-split Aces                  - (+0.07%)
• Double after Split            - (+0.14%)
• Double on 9,10, 11 only - (-0.09%)
• Double on 10, 11 only     - (-0.18%)
• Blackjack pays 6 to 5      - (-1.71%) AVOID
• Blackjack pays 2 to 1      - (+2.26%) 

There are other rules out there, but these will be the most common ones you'll run into.  If you need information on how to figure these out yourself or for obscure rules I'd check out Peter Griffin's The Theory of Blackjack.

Penetration (that's what she said)

Penetration in blackjack is referencing the depth of the deal, or, in other words, how many cards are dealt before the deck is reshuffled.  This is a huge factor in the playability of the game which can turn a juicy, profitable, game into a sucker's game.  In general, the shallower the penetration is, the larger the bet spread you must make to beat the game.  Larger bet spreads equal more heat from the pit crew which may shorten your stay at a store (casino) considerably.  I'm not going to go into great detail on penetration, as the information on it is widely available, but just know to keep an eye on where your dealer is placing the cut card.  If anything less than 75% of the cards are being played it's probably time to move on to a new game. 

Basic Strategy

So now you've found yourself a game that can be beaten, what's your next step?  Now you need to determine what the correct basic strategy is to reduce the house edge against you.  The best way to do this is to use a basic strategy engine.  My personal favorite to use is the one at  Blackjackinfo.com.  They also have a wonderful message board filled with very helpful posters.  

Once you find the one for your particular game you need to have it mastered before every sitting down at the blackjack game.  It may not seem like much to make an error here or there, but I can guarantee that if you don't have perfect basic strategy you will destroy your edge, and you aren't anywhere near ready to be a card counter.  Here is the basic strategy for the game described above in the rules section:

You must be able to 100% memorize these charts

Now that we have the basics out of the way it's time to wade a bit deeper into card counting which can be found in Part 2.

Blackjackinfo.com Forums Are Closing Down

I received an email yesterday letting me know that the forums at www.blackjackinfo.com are closing down.  This is terrible news for any aspiring player as the forums there were one of the best resources available for free. 


Throughout my time there I met many other players and learned almost everything that I know from the members there.  Ken Smith has done a great job running the site, but I understand his decision to shut them down.  At times they can turn into a huge headache.  We have a forum here [REMOVED] that can be used for anyone that wants to discuss blackjack.   Hope to see you there!

How Can Rat Holing Increase Your Profit?

What is Rat Holing?

Rat holing is the process of taking chips off of the table, and putting them into your pocket to make your wins appear smaller, and your losses appear bigger. This should be done slowly and methodically, as a pit crew will notice large amounts of chips coming off of the table. Higher denomination chips receive more scrutiny, and are much harder to rat hole.

How Does Rat Holing Increase Profit?

Rat holing doesn't directly relate to individual session profits, but it can provide longevity.  The pit crew will be more comfortable with a player who is "losing," and be less likely to back them off. Also, if you are playing rated, wins and losses will be tracked in the computer, allowing you to survive longer when showing multiple losing sessions.

Rat Holing Tips

1. Rat hole smaller denomination chips slowly and methodically.  When I say slowly and methodically I am referring to the amount of chips, not the actual motion of the rat hole.
2. Do not cash out rat holed chips in the same session.  Save the chips for a later date, or have a friend cash them out for you.
3. Keep your chips disorganized to make it harder for the pit crew to know how much you have.